Wine Reviews

92

MacRostie Winery 2023 Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast, Sonoma County ($28)

A Chardonnay that stands out on grounds of impeccably pure fruit, this shows just enough spice and a faint hint of barrel toast to keep it on the right side of the line separating “pure” from “simple.” With fruit notes recalling ripe peaches with a touch of tropical fruit akin to pineapple, this is delicious in a straightforward style.

97

MacRostie Winery 2023 Chardonnay, Stubbs Vineyard, Petaluma Gap, Sonoma County ($66)

The cool, extended 2023 growing season was very effectively utilized in the growing and vinifying of this wine, which offers expressive and fully satisfying aromas and flavors but is most remarkable for its bright clarity and linear energy. In its way, it brings Puligny-Montrachet to mind and is terrific now but destined for a decade of positive development.

91

Maison Saleya 2024 Rosé, Coteaux d’Aix en Provence, Provence, France ($13)

This would be competitive at $18, but at $13 it seems like a steal. Not quite as pale in color as many rosé wines from the region, it also offers just a touch of fruity sweetness but remains classy and restrained by global standards for the category. This finishes clean and dry despite showing some ripe fruit notes in the mid-palate, which is a winning combination.

91

Malbado 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina ($20)

Cigar leaf and espresso demand attention while graphite grabs the teeth on first pass. Tannins are amply displayed, and the wine bears a fine structure within a streamlined frame.

93

Malbado 2023 Malbec, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina ($20)

Sturdy and savory, with a surge of energetic, salted blackberry, roasted coffee, and a defined umami mid-palate. Toasty notes are generated by the creamy, dark plum and bittersweet dark chocolate character. Impressive!

91

Medina Gap 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon, Paso Robles ($15)

The taste of Paso Robles terroir is in every sip, deep and shadowed sweet soil, roasted coffee, and black plum. Tannins are sturdy and well structured, while the finish of desiccated violets leaves a long-lasting impression.

92

Meiomi 2024 Sauvignon Blanc, California ($18)

A luscious array of pear blossoms, vanilla meringue, Key lime and chamomile. Mid-palate notes of ripe pineapple help deliver the fine acid structure to the fore.

95

Merriam 2022 Merlot, Windacre Estate, Russian River Valley ($56)

The seduction begins with a sensuous bouquet, teeming with candied red fruit, plum, rose petals and mint leaves. Aged for 18 months in 30% new French Oak, the velvety sensations are enveloping and the supple tannins prickle more than they bite. This wine is charm incarnate.