Spirit Reviews

Empress Gin

Juniper and lavender up front on the nose and then it goes floral white pepper and lime zest. Notes of winter fruit, rose petals and clove are well integrated.

93

Free Spirits, Alcohol-Free, Spirit of Milano, USA ($35)

Bitters, red berries, and cinnamon come to the forefront, with cardamom and orange peel notes adding even more aromatics and depth. Inspired by Italian aperitivos, there is an authenticity here, and when mixed, brings complexity to a Negroni or Boulevardier. Added ingredients of vitamin B and amino acids can be mood elevators

92

Free Spirits, Alcohol-Free, The Spirit of Bourbon, USA ($28)

Cool, spiced notes of molasses, peach, and cedar. The toffee aromatics linger with a coffee-apricot finish. Light and malty – meant to be mixed. Makes a superb Boulevardier or Old Fashioned.

92

Gator Bite Infused Black Coffee & Rum Liqueur, 52 proof, USA ($20)

Satisfyingly rich and creamy, with authentic roasted coffee flavor and no lingering sweetness. Instead, the finish is more of an experience of a fine espresso, with a dot of pepper.

94

Miru Pear Flavored Vodka, USA, 80 proof ($28)

This grain-based spirit is named for the Ophidian snake-headed goddess of the sea. Notes of honeysuckle and jasmine meander into an undulating cadence of floral and pear. The heightened sense of sweetness hits the tongue and leans towards a tropical middle. With a dot of white pepper, the vodka eeks through a diaphanous satin curtain.

93

Opal Rare Spanish Gin ($35)

Produced just south of Barcelona, in Tarragona, for several generations of Jordi Montserrat’s family. The long list of botanicals are sourced locally from local Mediterranean growers. Orange blossom floats out of the glass and then sweetens on first sip. Juniper is present but subdued. This is such an expressive spirit, that one can picture the pastel colors of the flavors that rise up and shift across the mouth from beginning to finish: lavender, vanilla, and grapefruit zest among them. A charmer.

98

Papa’s Pilar 2022 Legacy Edition Rum, 88 proof ($100)

Honoring the 70th Anniversary of Ernest Hemingway’s Old Man & the Sea, this blend of dark rum from Barbados, Dominican Republic, Panama, Venezuela, and Florida is aged and finished in French Oak Apple Brandy casks. The spirit opens with a floral perfume of peony and honeyed pear blossom. Barely singed pineapple is sweet and ripe. Jasmine enters with a side of sassafras and pumpkin. The liquid melts across the palate in a slick cascade of flowers and fruit.

97

Pasote Tequila Añejo, 80 proof ($69)

Barrel-aged for a minimum of 12 months, aromas of woodsy agave are delicate and clean. Notes of lanolin, mango, and caramel are carried on a velvet path. The gliding liquid carries a stream of mocha-primed agave and soft notes of peanut brittle and dried fruits. The Aztec eagle warrior was one of the most feared warriors, but you need not be brave to lose yourself in this expression – it is most approachable.