Wine Reviews

94

Heir Apparent 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon, Stags Leap District, Napa Valley ($165)

An intriguing quality of mulled spices emerges alongside suggestions of boysenberry, cigar smoke, cranberry and compost. The round structure and savory grip integrate seamlessly accompanied by the essence of cured meat. There is an engaging slow build with a final flurry of lingering cooking spices, rosemary and pine clusters.

92

Herzog 2023 Lineage Cabernet Sauvignon, North Coast, CA ($20)

Robust notes of cherry tobacco, red tea, and sweet soil. Balanced acidity, oak, and a supple mouthfeel are proof of its grace and prowess.

94

Herzog 2023 Special Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, Sonoma County ($48)

Mocha-coated boysenberry, new leather, and licorice add layers of flavors, while suede tannins offer a plush mouthfeel. Cedar and cinnamon guide the long finish.

95

Hilary Goldschmidt 2022 Charming Creek Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville, Napa Valley ($55)

Black raspberry jam explodes on the palate, with creamy vanilla cedar, rose petals, and red tea. Fleshy, its layers of dark chocolate, cinnamon cookie and mocha latte add to its weight and reined-in power. Aged for 18 months in 85% new French oak, it demonstrates the bold elegance of Oakville: what a plush beauty.

94

Hispano Suizas 2022 Bassus Pinot Noir, Utiel-Requena, Spain ($57)

Spain is hardly famous for Pinot, but Utiel-Requena is a very high-quality growing region inland from Valencia that make superb wines from multiple varieties. Sourced from a densely planted site and aged in new, 300-liter French oak casks, this hits a beautiful balance point between poise and power. Already delicious and graceful, this will only improve for a full decade.

93

Kate Arnold 2023 Hirschy Vineyard Pinot Noir, Yamhill-Carlton, OR ($70)

A dramatic and deeply flavored Pinot, this shows a very ripe style that pushes its luck—but comes up just short of seeming “hot” from excessive alcohol. The texture is lovely, with very alluring softness that shows off the ripe fruit very effectively, turning in a winning performance.

92

Kate Arnold 2023 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, OR ($28)

It isn’t easy to find Pinot from Oregon for less than $30 that tastes like it actually comes from Oregon, but this wine fits that bill. It is on the light side in physical weight, with delicate aromas, flavors, and even texture, with very fine-grained tannins and no notable oak. The fruit is appealingly immediate and sweet, with flavors akin to the filling of strawberry-rhubarb pie. Simple, but delicious.

91

Kim Crawford 2023 Illuminate Sauvignon Blanc, New Zealand ($15)

This Sauvignon Blanc is no wilting flower, blooming with notes of grass, honeydew melon, white pepper and jalapeño. Effervescent and juicy, it is a joyous melange of diced pineapples, candied lime and a lingering grapefruit finish. The sunshine radiates in this playful ode to the summer with just enough depth to take seriously.