Wine Reviews

88

Gruet Le Spritz Le Orangerie NV, New Mexico ($25)

A heady perfume of just-peeled orange with a hint of bitterness and a dab of sweet cherry announces this wine cocktail that, according to the respected New Mexican sparkling-wine producer behind it, was “inspired by a classic Aperol spritz.” Though the mouthfeel is a bit denser than that of its prototype, it’s still an easy drinker with an underpinning of orchard fruit and medicinal herbs. 12.5% ABV.

92

GUNBUN 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County ($30)

An unpretentious wine with contemporary styling may seem a bit unlikely from a generations-old family winery, but here’s an example of exactly that. Bold flavors of cassis and blackberry are brightened with fresh acidity and provided complexity by spice notes and a whiff of woodsmoke.

94

Gundlach Bundschu 2022 Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast ($32)

Skillfully grown and wrought in the cellar, this tastes like special occasion Chardonnay for a surprisingly approachable price. It shows all the “bells and whistles” of a high-end rendition, with accents of spices, smoke, and vanilla on a core of creamy fruit with citrus edging. However, all those bells and whistles are subtle, “sounding” like they’re coming from someplace down the hallway. Exemplary California Chardonnay at a more-than-fair price.

93

Gustave Lorentz 2022 Reserve Pinot Blanc, Vin d’Alsace ($25)

Linen and Meyer lemon surge with an assertive acidity. Clean, focused minerality and an exquisite, glassy mouthfeel.

91

Gustave Lorentz 2022 Reserve Pinot Gris Vin d’Alsace ($26)

With its gold-yellow color and medium body, this wine offers aromas of apricot, nectarine, peach, lemon, grapefruit, and quince. It possesses a weight on the palate that makes it versatile with various dishes. The fruit is balanced by acidity.

92

Gustave Lorentz Crémant d’Alsace Brut ($30)

From 63% Pinot Blanc Auxerrois, 22% Chardonnay, 9% Pinot Noir and 6% Pinot Gris. Pale yellow color with notes of red currant, raspberry, cranberry, and kirsch. Hints of elderflower and flint, with a croissant finish. On the palate, green apple, gooseberry, and lemon zest complement the red fruit flavors, along with a touch of herbaceousness. Lively acidity.

93

Hazel & Axe 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon, California ($28)

Full-bodied, with generous purple fruit and chocolate-kissed coffee. Well-structured and superb balance delivers like a wine three times its listed retail price.

90

Hazel & Axe 2021 Chardonnay, California ($22)

Beaming with flinty minerality and a touch of lemon zest. Good acid structure and seasoned with white pepper and a hint of tilled soil.