Wine Reviews

93

End of the Day 2023 Albariño, Paso Robles ($30)

Aromas: Pear blossom, vanilla bean, and mango
Succulent and weighty, with white chocolate-covered lime. Dramatic texture, with flavors of spiced fig, bread dough, and parchment verify its unique stature.

95

Etienne 2023 Coronati, Lirac, Côtes-du-Rhône, France ($72)

Sage and plum perfume this blend of 40% Grenache, 40% Syrah, and 20% Mourvèdre. Garrigue, cherry skins and tangerine zest anchor the palate with a symphony of earth, spice, and smoke. Licorice lathers on the finish, with a sense of the Rhône’s embrace.

95

Etienne 2023 Essen, Lirac, Côtes-du-Rhône, France ($39)

Adam Lee and Morét Brealynn-Chavez’s winemaking partners Jeff and Simona Paly blended 74% Grenache, 24% Syrah, and 2% Mourvèdre from vines as old as 65 years. A fresh, youthful red, it was aged for 12 months in 39% new French oak and the remainder in used barrels and stainless steel.
Lavender and Mediterranean scrub surround bright cherry and strawberry, with a touch of sweet soil. Tannins are soft, with engaging acidity. Vibrant black fruit enters mid-palate, lingering with the garrigue’s textural charm.

95

Feudi di San Gregorio 2024 San Greg Rosato, Campania IGT, Italy ($25)

Aromas: Strawberry, rose petals, lanolin
Vinified like a white wine with zero skin contact prior to fermentation, this 100% Aglianico declares a refreshing opening sip. Fruit from elevations of 2,300 feet above sea level are early ripeners, thanks to a fair share of sun exposure. Notes of crushed stone, raspberries, and lemon zest fill the mouth. While red berries linger, vibrant accents of thyme and salty lanolin stretch out on a structured, yet graceful path.

92

Forrest 2023 Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand ($22)

Here’s a shimmering textbook example of Marlborough’s claim to fame. Intense aromas of grapefruit, passion fruit, and an array of herbs—basil, mint, dill—are mirrored on a palate that beams like sunshine while showing a bit of textural flesh accentuated by lemon blossom on the finish.

93

Fowles 2021 Ladies Who Shoot Their Lunch Wild Ferment Chardonnay, Strathbogie Ranges, Victoria, Australia ($35)

Vanilla wraps around fresh pineapple, and juicy lemon wedge seasoned with thyme. Minerality and bracing acidity tango on the cooling, crisp finish.

93

Fowles Wine 2021 Farm to Table Shiraz, Strathbogie Ranges, Victoria, Australia ($18)

Awarded “Best International Wine” from this year’s San Antonio Stock Show & Rodeo, we easily saddled up to this full-flavored, silky red. Red plum and wild strawberry exhibits fresh-ability, thanks to a taut acidity. A shiny, fruity Shiraz from this rugged, cool climate sub-region. Owner Matt Fowles refers to it as a “perception-shifting wine.”

92

Gehricke 2023 Petite Sirah, Sonoma Valley, Sonoma County ($29)

Aged 13 months in Hungarian and American oak, this savory, dark, and concentrated red offers up mouth-filling notes of black cherry, lavender, and bacon fat. Bolstered by melting dark chocolate, this generous red keeps the palate satisfied through its toasty oak finish.