GUINIGI

Dom Ruinart 2013, Reims, Champagne, France ($340)

Remarkable freshness and agility imbue this extra-brut blanc de blancs from Premiers and Grands Crus. Dried peach and apricot, smoke, baking spice, toasted macadamia nut, and faint honeysuckle converge on the complex nose with the lemon confit that continues onto the palate in chalk-dusted undulations of citrus, lightly dappled with makrut lime leaf and underripe pineapple. The acidity’s plenty energetic, yet the overall effect, thanks to the wine’s chiffon texture, is one of marvelous poise.

Uncle Vals