by Chris Howard
Situated in the temperate heart of Sonoma County is Crossbarn, where long-held agricultural and winemaking traditions beget bright, youthful wines that vividly express a sense of place. Since founding the winery in 2000, acclaimed vintner Paul Hobbs has paid homage to his family’s 150-year farming heritage by crafting terroir-driven wines from some of Sonoma’s as well as Napa’s finest appellations.
Growing up on his family’s farm in New York alongside ten siblings, Hobbs tended orchards, harvested crops, and sold produce at local markets—experiences that not only instilled in him the values of hard work and integrity but also fostered his deep respect for and connection to the land. Tasting subtle differences in apples of the same variety from orchards just a stone’s throw apart, he gained insight into the influence of site on fruit character. This early appreciation for terroir translates directly into his approach to winemaking at Crossbarn today.
The name refers to a favorite meeting place of the siblings: Nestled between the horse stable and a larger barn, the “cross” barn was, as Hobbs fondly remembers it, a point of adventure and connection. “Crossbarn was created to speak of place, to celebrate the AVA from which the wines come—a nod to tradition, to sustainable practices, to family values, to ‘home,’” he explains.
Beginning with a small lot of Cabernet Sauvignon, the winery has gradually expanded its offerings over the years to showcase Sonoma and Napa’s diverse terroirs. Crossbarn’s Sonoma Coast Chardonnay, for instance, is sourced from carefully selected vineyards across the Sonoma Coast AVA, particularly from its western edge. Thick morning fog and afternoon sea breezes characterize this cooler appellation, delivering a marine-influenced Chardonnay marked by lively citrus, green apple, and mineral tones. Crossbarn’s Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir hails from the same area as the Chardonnay and includes fruit from Feeney Ranch, purchased by Hobbs in 2014. The region’s signature fog and fine sandy-loam Goldridge soils produce an expressive, harmonious wine showcasing a mélange of red fruits, floral aromatics, mouthwatering acidity, and fine-grained tannins.
Moving inland, fruits sourced from the alluvial benchlands and volcanic soils of Napa Valley yield a rich, ageworthy Cabernet Sauvignon brimming with blackberry, cigar box, and sage. Over the Mayacamas mountains, Sonoma County’s Alexander Valley produces another Cabernet: an elegant, well-structured wine marrying black fruit with baking spice and tobacco leaf. A limited-release Sonoma Coast Rosé of Pinot Noir and a Cabernet Franc from Sonoma’s Moon Mountain round out the collection.
Having expanded its holdings in both Sonoma and Napa in recent years, Crossbarn is moving toward 100% estate-grown fruit. For Hobbs, being in full control of viticultural operations is about ensuring not only that the most pristine grapes arrive at the winery but that the farming is done to the highest environmental standards.
To show those grapes in their best light, Crossbarn embraces traditional, non-interventionist practices in the winery, which is located in a former apple processing facility in Sebastopol. While not intervening sounds simple, in practice it is deeply labor-intensive. Hand harvesting the fruit in the cool of the night, the team gently sorts the berries and clusters before fermenting each vineyard separately with native yeasts. The wines are then matured in a combination of stainless-steel vessels and barrels with a low percentage of new oak.
The resulting wines display effortless balance, vibrancy, and grace—a true reflection of the vineyards and of family heritage. As Hobbs says, “Farm life instills in one a deep sense of respect for family, a love of the land, and the joys of a collaborative effort.”