by David Ransom
The Rhône Valley is a vast and varied wine-producing region—France’s second-largest, in fact—with hundreds of estates operating in more than a dozen AOCs. One such winery is Domaine de la Mordorée, which is anchored in the historic village of Tavel on the Rhône River’s west bank—though like many producers in the region, it makes wines not only in its home AOC but in neighboring appellations as well.
Founded in 1986 by Francis Delorme and his son Christophe, who started with 12 vineyard acres in the heart of the Tavel AOC, Domaine de la Mordorée is currently run by Christophe’s daughter, Ambre, and her mother, Madeleine, following Christophe’s untimely passing in 2015. Currently, they farm upwards of 140 acres of vineyards spread across 38 plots in Tavel, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Lirac, Côtes du Rhône, and Condrieu. All have been ECOCERT-certified organic since 2013 and Demeter-certified Biodynamic since 2020—reflecting a commitment to land stewardship that Ambre asserts was at the heart of her father’s viticultural philosophy.
“My father was convinced, as am I, that nature is more talented than we humans and that our role is mainly to accompany the grapes on their journey to wine, so for us, making wine doesn’t mean to apply scientific methods as much as to coax the wine into being,” she says, adding, “It’s very important to show to people that it’s possible to make great wine and to respect our nature, too.” This approach seems to be working, as Domaine de la Mordorée has garnered accolades from across the globe for its mindfully crafted wines, which have been imported by Fran Kysela, MS, owner of Virginia-based outfit Kysela Pere et Fils, for more than 25 years.
“The Delorme family prides themselves on authenticity, and they really are stewards of their land,” says Christian Borel, wine director at L’Auberge Provençale Inn and Restaurant in White Post, Virginia. “The Domaine de la Mordorée wines, for me, show a wonderful sense of place and embody the meaning of regional character.” L’Auberge Provençale features a number of Mordorée wines in its award-winning wine program, which is updated seasonally along with its farm-to-table menu. A few staples it always carries and promotes include the La Reine des Bois Lirac Rouge and La Reine des Bois Châteauneuf-du-Pape. “At times, we also pour Tavel and Lirac Blanc and Rouge by the glass,” adds Celeste Borel, Christian’s mother, who established the inn with her husband in the 1980s. “We respect that lesser-known regions like Lirac and Tavel offer amazing quality at a good price.”
Domaine de la Mordorée 2023 Côtes du Rhône, France ($27) This wine is composed of 70% Grenache and Syrah along with smaller amounts of Cinsault, Carignan, and Mourvèdre—all of which is hand-harvested from Demeter-certified vineyards. A deep red color, it shows good acidity and freshness on the palate as it reveals notes of black currant, red fruits, and violet. A wonderful accompaniment to a variety of foods, including charcuterie and cheeses.
Domaine de la Mordorée 2023 La Dame Rousse, Tavel, France ($48) From the galet roulé–covered limestone and sandy soils of Mordorée’s home vineyards, 60% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 15% Cinsault, and 10% Clairette are destemmed and crushed before undergoing cold maceration and temperature-controlled fermentation to help retain fruit character and freshness. With its lush, round flavor profile, the result is a true gastronomic rosé filled with berry and citrus—a wonderful match for white meats and fish dishes.
Domaine de la Mordorée 2022 La Reine des Bois Rouge, Lirac, France ($48) This hand-harvested blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre is a classic Lirac grown in the soils of the Lirac plain on the Rhône’s north bank, which are dominated by siliceous clay and galets roulés (river stones). Aged primarily in steel (85%) with the remainder resting in oak casks, it shows deep color and lovely notes of raspberry, blueberry, and blackberry on the palate. Elegant tannins and good acidity help make this ripe and round wine a match for red meats and cheeses.
Domaine de la Mordorée 2020 La Reine des Bois, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, France ($156) This deeply colored wine comprises 75% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre, and 5% Counoise and Vaccarèse from organic and Demeter-certified Biodynamic vineyards on the Plateau de la Crau in the premier appellation of the Southern Rhône. Long maceration and temperature-controlled fermentation with indigenous yeasts for 30 days help preserve its intense berry character. Maturation in 80% steel and 20% oak lends it richness while building structure and mouthfeel, making it a perfect match for roasted meats, game, and sauce-based dishes.
