Comings, Goings, and Milestones in the California Wine Industry
by Laura Ness
Three new AVAs were approved in California in 2022. SLO Coast in southern San Luis Obispo County is becoming known for aromatic varieties like Albariño, Riesling, and Grüner Veltliner. Gabilan Mountains on the Central Coast is home to Chalone Vineyard, Coastview Vineyard, and Calera. And West Sonoma Coast includes the Annapolis, Fort Ross–Seaview, and Occidental-Freestone growing areas.
The Monterey-based Caraccioli Cellars was awarded “Best U.S. Sparkling Wine” for its newly released 2016 Blanc de Blancs at the 2022 Champagne & Sparkling Wine World Championships. Its 2016 Brut Cuveé and 2016 Brut Rosé took home Best of Class awards as well.
As its newly appointed wine director, Chris McFall is overseeing SingleThread Farms’ entire beverage program, including its 150-page wine list. Prior to joining the beverage team of SingleThread in 2020, he worked at the two-Michelin-starred Lazy Bear in San Francisco.
Jesse Fox, named winemaker at Napa’s Sequoia Grove in February 2022, conducted his first harvest at the 43-year-old winery. Fox, who initially pursued a career as a chef after graduating from Cornell University and Le Cordon Bleu, began his winemaking career at Harlan Estate, followed by cellar work at Ram’s Gate and Amici Cellars.
Gregory Graham Wines in the Red Hills AVA of Lake County is currently on the market. While working at Rombauer, Greg Graham developed the style of Chardonnay we fondly call “cougar juice.”
Dry Creek Valley’s Papapietro Perry Winery, known for its focus on single-vineyard Pinot Noir, has restructured, with founding winemaker and co-owner Ben Papapietro moving to the position of executive winemaker. Dave Low is serving as winemaker, while Tyson Freeman has become assistant winemaker and Lucindo Mendez is now cellar master. Papapietro says, “After so many years working together, we are more family than colleagues.”
Cal Poly grad Kamee Knutson was named head winemaker at Talbott Vineyards in the Santa Lucia Highlands following the departure of David Coventry. Knutson has been with E. & J. Gallo’s Edna Valley Vineyard for the past 20 years.
Meanwhile, E. & J. Gallo has plucked another plum, acquiring Denner Vineyards in the Willow Creek District of Paso Robles, known for its Rhône- and Bordeaux-style wines.
The World’s Best Vineyard Awards include three in the U.S.: Robert Mondavi (number 5), Opus One (number 24), and Jordan Vineyard & Winery (number 46). Topping the list for the first time is a winery from Italy: Antinori nel Chianti Classico in Tuscany, followed by Bodegas de los Herederos del Marqués de Riscal in Rioja, Spain; Montes in Chile’s Colchagua Valley, Chile; VIK in Chile’s Cachapoal Valley; and Schloss Johannisberg in Rheingau, Germany.
Kudos to Mendocino County’s Pennyroyal Farm for earning “Best of Show/Best Red” at the 2022 Harvest Challenge with its 2019 Monty In Anderson Valley Pinot Noir and to Girasole, also in Mendocino Country, for scoring “Best of Show White” with its 2021 Pinot Blanc. Sonoma-Cutrer from Sonoma County aced “Best Sparkling” with its 2018 Brut and “Best Rosé Sparkling” with its 2019 Rosé of Pinot Noir.
Inspired by the stunning images of early star formation from the James Webb Space Telescope, Green Valley’s Iron Horse Vineyards has released its 2014 Stargazing Cuvée, which features an all-Chardonnay dosage. The label features a photo of the Cosmic Cliffs of the Carina Nebula, released by NASA in July 2022.
