String Theory

Winemaker Fred Cline of Cline Family Cellars in Sonoma, California, is a big believer in string theory, which essentially states that all of the different forces of nature are tied together. It’s employed by physicists, but Cline sees it as applying to viticulture in the sense that every action taken in the vineyard is part of the same framework, and each one can positively or negatively impact another—even without the actor’s awareness of that impact.

Inspired by the concept, he introduced what he calls Green String farming to all of his properties with the invaluable help of Bob Cannard, a Sonoma native who was an early adopter of organic growing in California (he even grew vegetables for Alice Waters’ Chez Panisse). Second-generation vintner Megan Cline says that her dad aimed to raise his employees’ awareness about the connections between their tasks. Though it shares similarities with Biodynamic and organic farming, “it’s not an instructional method, it’s a philosophy,” she explains. “We [work on] giving back to the soil with a focus on the long-term health of our vineyards; we use cover crops, compost, and compost tea, and [we] truly believe biodiversity is one of the most important parts of what we do. We don’t, however, follow a rigorous one-size-fits-all solution to farming. [When we] run into issues, the idea is to embrace the problems and work with nature to find a way to overcome them.

One example she gives is natural pest control in lieu of chemical sprays: Owl boxes positioned throughout the vineyards introduce a predator-versusprey dynamic. Another example is the elimination of herbicides. Instead of using Roundup to kill off grasses and weeds, the Clines bring in herds of sheep and goats twice annually; they gobble up everything but the vines while also providing an incredibly rich fertilizer.

The Clines also run Green String Farm, a working farm with ample grazing land that sits smack in the middle of their Diamond Pile Vineyard, which is in turn located on a 400-acre ranch perched on the western side of Sonoma Mountain in Petaluma Gap. An on-site market, the Green String Farmstand, offers a variety of homegrown fruits and vegetables, including almonds and peaches, as well as sustainably raised beef.

The family even started a label that pays homage to their endeavors, Farmhouse Wines, consisting of a red and a white that retail for $11 each. Tom Gendall, the California North Coast winemaker for Cline Family Cellars, oversees it as well as Jacuzzi and Gust Wines, which is a project of Megan and her sister Hilary that’s focused on Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Syrah from Petaluma Gap. Understanding that Green String farming is all about “the interconnections and the best way to grow crops,” he employs its principles throughout his work for Cline in Sonoma.

No stranger to sustainable farming practices before joining Cline, Gendall spent the majority of his career as the assistant vineyard manager at Pegasus Bay in New Zealand, where he oversaw new plantings under the winery’s strict sustainability measures. With further experience at Weingut Keller in the Rheinhessen and California’s Bryant Family Vineyard, Arrowood, and Sojourn Cellars, he’s equally well-versed in producing high-quality value wines. (He’s also the vigneron of Gordenker—a brand he owns with his wife, Michele— for which he farms just over 6 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon in the Moon Mountain AVA and a bit of Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir in the Russian River Valley.)

Gendall fondly refers to the Farmhouse line, representing the entry level of the Cline portfolio, as “patio pounders.” “We take great grapes farmed [according to] the Green String method to craft flavorful and crisp wines intended for sharing with friends,” he says. “It’s a great step on the beginning rung of the wine adventure, but [with] enough character of expression and site [that] seasoned drinkers will find them delightful as well. Above all, they are a tribute to sustainable farming—a direction we should all be going in—and made at a price point that is approachable for everyone.” Buyers, take note: These estate blends offer extreme value by the glass or bottle and are also available to the off-premise market nationwide.