A Q&A with Sam Schmitt of Folded Hills Winery
story by Wes Hagen
In 1933, Americans really needed a drink. It was on the day that Prohibition ended that “Gussie” Busch first hitched up a team of Clydesdales to, in his words, “haul the first case of Budweiser down Pennsylvania Avenue to Franklin D. Roosevelt.” A similar commitment to beverage and hospitality drives Gussie’s son Andrew and his wife, Kim, as the proprietors of Folded Hills Winery and Farmstead; their 18 acres of Rhône varietals, located in a southwestern subregion of the Santa Ynez Valley AVA, make up the only vineyard in the immediate area. When I stopped in to taste three great estate-bottled wines with winemaker Michael Brughelli, I also got a history lesson from the Busches and general manager Sam Schmitt, DipWSET.
Schmitt and I chatted about the team’s winemaking philosophy and the importance of history, authenticity, and family at Folded Hills.
What was the focus of developing Folded Hills?
Renewal, sustainability, and legacy. Andy and Kim discovered there was a pre–Prohibition era vineyard and winery on the property, which was the spark. Just about everything needed to be renewed from the ground up—the vineyard, the buildings, the vision. I think they’ve done a great job of accomplishing these objectives.
Folded Hills is in a special southern fold of the Santa Ynez Valley AVA, outside of current Santa Barbara County wine-production areas. Do you see flavor profiles similar to those of adjacent areas like Ballard Canyon, Sta. Rita Hills, and Alisos Canyon?
We are the southernmost winery in Santa Ynez Valley and the closest to the Pacific Ocean. Our days begin similar to [those of] Ballard Canyon—sunny and warm rising to almost hot mid-afternoon—but end more like Sta. Rita Hills, as the cold, brisk winds quickly cool the vineyard. Our flavors lean toward a Northern Rhône expression—complex red and black fruits, delicate spice, and bright acidity.
How does being in a new, relatively unplanted area of the Central Coast help or hinder developing the brand?
We know that interest in our brand and vines continues to grow as word of mouth spreads about the great wines being made here. We intend to be considered among the first-tier premium wineries as interest in the region grows, and the swift growth of our wine club and tour appointments shows that folks are loving what we do. Winemaker Michael Brughelli is making amazing wines at Folded Hills, and people are increasingly interested in a new Santa Barbara Country mesoclimate.
Wes’ Wine Pick
Folded Hills 2021 Lilly Rose, Santa Ynez Valley This rosé of Genache has a light salmon hue with brilliant clarity and aromas of confectionary kiwi, strawberry, and cherry skin. Clean, fruity, and enticing, with hints of mineral complexity. On the attack, it has great energy and flavor, being neither too light nor too intense—this is a wine that’s equally comfortable being sessioned or studied. Folded Hills GM Sam Schmitt suggests pairing it with a grilled, herbed chicken breast and a roasted corn, feta, and tomato salad.
