Recapping the CHARLESTON WINE + FOOD FESTIVAL
by Wanda Mann
My mood shifted as soon as I landed in Charleston, South Carolina. The Holy City’s balmy temperatures beckoned me to shed my bulky winter coat and the stress of life in Manhattan for a few days—and my stomach was grumbling in anticipation of the fabulous flavors I would taste during the Charleston Wine + Food Festival (CHSWF), held March 1–5.
I had been counting down the days to the festival since attending last year for the first time. CHSWF not only showcases Charleston’s acclaimed culinary scene but also celebrates its community. “For me, the festival is so much more than a five-day party. It’s a homecoming—a family reunion,” shared Alyssa Maute Smith, the festival’s executive director. “[It] serve[s] as a chance to connect with friends both known and not yet known [and] to share the love and admiration for this place. As a proud Charlestonian, [I feel] the festival is a way to share our story with the world. We really have something going on here.”
I witnessed that pride and joy as I watched guests smiling, dancing, flirting, and feasting at various events, including the opening-night celebration at the Cistern at the College of Charleston and the sprawling Culinary Village at Riverfront Park, which included a beer garden, chef demos, live music, and even a silent disco. What’s more, the good vibes spread all over town; as one of more than 30,000 people who joined in the festivities, I attended tastings in mansions, hotels, and restaurants throughout Charleston’s historic city center and beyond. Highlights included “Agave: A Spirited Succulent,” supported by The Tasting Panel—a deep dive into the agave plant, it showcased such brands as Fortaleza Blanco Tequila and Yola Mezcal—and the media happy hour, for which the stately and opulent Wentworth Mansion, a luxury hotel that was built as a private residence in the 1860s, made a grand setting. A few pesky mosquitos couldn’t deter guests from enjoying bites prepared by Erica McCier, Rob Masone, and Marcus Shell; appointed by the South Carolina Department of Agriculture as its 2023 South Carolina Chef Ambassadors, they represented the state by preparing dishes with certified local produce, meat, and seafood.
I also enjoyed participating in the festival as a moderator of two beverage workshops. “Anything But Champagne,” which was supported by sister publication The SOMM Journal,explored the vast world of sparkling wines beyond the famed French region: Guests were greeted with a glass of La Marca Prosecco as I gave an overview of the brand, thus setting the stage for the next several wines, which represented different regions and styles of bubbly—Barone Pizzini Animante Franciacorta (Italy), Vilarnau Reserva Cava Brut Rosé (Spain), Gusborne Brut Reserve (England), Raumland Cuvée Katharine Sekt Brut Nature (Germany), and Medici Ermete Concerto Lambrusco Reggiano Lambrusco (Italy). “Breakfast of Champions,” meanwhile, shared the stories behind iconic Champagne houses Charles Heidsieck, Piper-Heidsieck, and Rare Champagne. Guests were delighted to learn that the original “Champagne Charlie,” Charles Heidsieck, had visited Charleston in the 19th century. But these were just two seminars of many: “The CHSWF Beverage Workshop Program has evolved into a safe space for knowledge seekers and knowledge leaders to connect,” said Cha McCoy, the festival’s beverage director. “It is where collectors, enthusiasts, and trade can learn from renowned experts in their field, covering several beverages from saké, beer, [and] spirits, to, of course, wine. . . . They are all eager to interact directly with an engaged audience who is equally interested in learning about the product as they are about tasting.”
And they weren’t alone in their enthusiasm; producers heralded the value of showcasing their brands at CHSWF. “Charleston exudes a bright and positive energy that perfectly matches the lively bubbles and expressive style of La Marca Prosecco,” shared Gavin Lippman, senior associate brand manager for La Marca. “The festival gave us a great opportunity to share a taste of la dolce vita and Italian hospitality with our Prosecco and toast to life’s most joyful moments together.” In addition to being featured in the “Anything But Champagne” workshop, La Marca set up a picture-perfect booth at the Culinary Village that was a crowd favorite; the flower-festooned wall was perfect for posing with a glass of refreshing bubbly and a complimentary La Marca parasol.
My workshops, along with many others, were hosted at The Mills House Hotel, a 170-year-old landmark property in Charleston’s historic French Quarter, which I hope to make my home base on every visit. “With a multimillion-dollar, transformative renovation completed in December 2022, including our new signature restaurant Iron Rose, we are excited to reinvigorate our ties to the city we call home,” said hotel general manager Michael Linder. “Charleston Wine + Food has done an incredible job elevating the [city’s] hospitality community into the national spotlight, and we were honored to serve as the 2023 Beverage Hub, offering a fresh, energetic space for attendees and beverage professionals to gather. We look forward to continuing to celebrate the creative talent that makes Charleston such a special place.”
Wine professionals from around the country also fell under Charleston’s spell, including the panelists who joined me onstage for the “Anything But Champagne”workshop. May Matta-Aliah, a New York City–based wine educator and Franciacorta brand ambassador, was impressed that “the festival offered a range of events at various price points, so there was something for everyone to enjoy.” Minnesota-based sommelier and German wine ambassador Amy Waller said, “The entire festival felt creative and energetic, encouraging curiosity and exploration from presenters and attendees alike.” Christy Frank, the owner of Copake Wine Works in Copake, New York, praised “the beverage workshops’ focus on such a wide range of wines—from classics to emerging styles that are starting to hit more mainstream shelves.” And Jonathan Boulangeat, private client director for Folio Fine Wine Partners and my co-moderator at the “Breakfast of Champions” Champagne tasting, may have summed it up best: “Longue vie au Charleston Wine + Food Festival!” May CHSWF have a long life indeed.
Save the dates: The next Charleston Wine + Food Festival will take place March 6–10, 2024. For more information, visit charlestonwineandfood.com.
