by Eric Marsh
“Are they still open?” has likely left your lips a few times in the past month or 16. And as you start to venture farther away from the deep grooves you’ve cut between your local haunts (that stayed open), to dinner parties and destination spots, that question will sometimes answer itself as you pass by establishments now illumined by string lighting above clusters of outdoor seating on sidewalks and parking lots, that wasn’t there Before Times. And while those spots might be old favorites or places you’ve always wanted to try, they might also be new establishments that have just opened, breathing new life into the local culinary scene. Here’s a shortlist of both in L.A., that merit a visit.
Angelini Osteria first opened its doors on Beverly Boulevard in October of 2001 and chef Gino Angelini has since set the bar high for Italian cuisine in the city. While there is no shortage of pasta dishes and grilled meats on the restaurant’s menu, it also offers lighter fare, fitting for summer, like the ahi tuna tartare with pistachios and arugula served on smoky, grilled crostini, and grilled swordfish served on a bed of what is likely the most tender (even fluffy) and flavorful rapini ripassati you’ve ever had. While there’s a well-curated selection of domestic and French wines, the wine list is mostly comprised of Italian bottles, and spans the country’s regions big and small.
The restaurant completely closed twice during the pandemic for a total of five months—once in March for three months and again in late November for another two—but it’s again open with expanded outdoor seating on its patio, and for indoor dining at 75% compacity. So, it would appear auspicious that Angelini Osteria will see its 20th anniversary this October . . . and keep an eye out for Gino Angelini pasta sauces that were developed by the chef himself at Angelini Osteria, now available at high-end West Coast grocery stores.
Farther west down Beverly, on Robertson Boulevard, The Henry has officially reopened with a refreshed food and drink menu, along with updates to its exterior and interior. Expect to see chilled seafood platers, vegan chorizo tostadas, and Korean skirt steak with double-egg friend rice. And it’s again open for happy hour, which includes 25% off bottles of wine, and bottles of champagne that come accompanied with a half-dozen oysters.
Lucky Bird is one of the fortunate restaurants that has expanded operations during the pandemic. The restaurant quickly gained notoriety after opening its Grand Central Market location in 2018. In late June it opened its standalone L.A. location in Eagle Rock—a 3,000 square foot space designed by local award-winning restaurant designer Ana Henton. Lucky Bird chef and owner Chris Dane says that during last year’s shutdown he amended his fried chicken recipe by dialing up the lemon and herb notes in the brine, adding a lighter, brighter component to his already flavor-forward crispy bird. The menu at the Eagle Rock location also features Lucky Bird’s beer-battered tofu, as well as an expanded selection of sides, including watermelon-cucumber salad and all-day waffles. The location is now open for dinner Thursday—Monday, with lunch hours to come at a later date.
The Chicago restaurant, Girl & the Goat, is slated to open the doors of its L.A. outpost in the Arts District on July 15. Helmed by James Beard award-winning chef Stephanie Izard, the restaurant will offer menu favorites from its Windy City restaurant’s menu, like goat empanadas and sauteed green beans, while also incorporating Californian produce and seafood into dishes. Expect a global wine list, and fun craft cocktails as well as a rotating beer selection. Girl & the Goat will be open for dinner Sunday through Thursday nights, as well as for brunch on Saturday and Sunday.
