Vineyards in the Uco Valley, Argentina. Photo courtesy Bodegas Salentein.
Incredible Wines from the World’s Highest Vineyards
Mendoza, a charming small city of tree-lined streets and outdoor cafés, sits on a high desert plain in the rain shadow of the massive Andes mountains. An hour and a half drive to the southwest, into the foothills, will bring you to the sleepy farming village of Tupungato, which sits at 4,000 feet above sea level.
Tupugato is the entrance to the Uco Valley, a lush, high-elevation region that has become the most important new vineyard area in Argentina. The foothills of the Andes provide perfect growing conditions: well-drained soil, warm days and cool nights. It is this region, among all others in the world, where Michel Rolland, the great globe-trotting winemaking consultant, has chosen to establish his own vineyards.
Here are some of the important wineries in the region, with my notes on recent releases, tasted on site in Argentina recently. The scores were almost uniformly high, leading me to suspect, along with Rolland, that Argentina may be the world’s most promising wine country.
Clos de los Siete
Begun in 1998, this is the personal project of superstar winemaker Michel Rolland, who is part-owner of this remarkable $50 million venture that includes a group of French investors.CHAMBERS & CHAMBERS
Clos de los Siete 2006 ($20)
Fleshy, rich and smooth with sweet, ripe plum and blackberry fruit; silky, fresh and plummy with great structure. 50% Malbec, 30% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Syrah. 90
Cuvelier Los Andes
The Cuvelier family owns Château Léoville-Poyferré in Saint-Julien. With Michel Rolland’s help they are producing world-class wines as part of the Clos de los Siete group. SLOCUM & SONS
Cuvelier Los Andes 2005 ($34)
Elegant, dense and smooth with lovely plum, spice and oak; rich and balanced with lovely, refined flavors. 70% Malbec, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Syrah, 7% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot. 93
2005 Malbec ($45)
Dark, dense and loaded with chocolate and spice with ripe plum and blackberry fruit; rich and denseconcentrated, long and tannic. 92
Monteviejo
Catherine Péré-Vergé is an owner in Pomerol (Château Le Gay and others) who has become one of the proprietors in the Clos de los Siete project.
Monteviejo 2006 ($30)
Juicy and bright with long, rich flavors and lovely spice and plum; toasty, rich and lively with smooth texture and great length. 70% Malbec, 20% Syrah, 5% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. 91
2004 Lindaflor Malbec ($45)
Dark, rich and plummy with velvety texture and ripe, blackberry and plum fruit; long, dense and complex with soft, smooth, mellow flavors. 93
Jose Manuel Ortega, Chairman of O. Fournier, in the barrel room.
O. Fournier
This winery is owned by the Ortega Gil-Fournier family, who have planted 240-acres of vineyard in La Consulta. FINE ESTATES FROM SPAIN
2007 B Crux Sauvignon Blanc ($18)
Bright and juicy with edgy citrus fruit and racy acidity; pure, long and bursting with fruit. 90
2004 B Crux ($24)
Bright and juicy with racy acidity, firm tannins and spicy notes; crisp, lively and long with tangy plum and fine balance. 50% Tempranillo, 40% Malbec, 10% Merlot. 90
2005 Alfa Crux Malbec ($48)
Dense, smooth and complex with racy structure and firm, tannic flavors; long, dense and lively. 50% Tempranillo, 40% Malbec, 10% Merlot. 90
2004 Syrah ($85)
Rich and ripe with concentrated fruit and spice; long, ripecomplex and dense with smooth texture and lovely balance and structure. 91
Antucura
This family-owned winery has more than 200-acres of vines in the Vista Flores area. (The winemaker, Sonia Martínez, is the only vegetarian I ever met in carnivorous Argentina.) Michel Rolland consults.
Antucura 2004 ($50)
Ripe and dense with power and meaty flavors with rich berry and cassis flavors; velvety, long and rich with chocolate and spice. 60% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon. 92 points
Antucura 2004 Calvulcura ($28)
Lush and smooth, dense and rich with ripe plum, spice and bright acidity; fresh, tannic, long and herbed with some chocolate and spice. 60% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon. 91
Flechas de los Andes
Another of the Clos de los Siete group, a joint venture between Laurent Dassault of Dassault Aviation (and Château Dassault) and the Rothschild family of Château Clarke in Listrac.
Flechas de los Andes 2005 ($45)
Black, thick and dense with concentrated fruit and spice; rich, long and powerful. 60% Malbec, with Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon. 92
Finca SopheniaThe project of Roberto Luka, Michel Rolland is consulting winemaker. There are three tiers: budget-priced Altosur, mid-range Finca Sophenia and flagship Sophenia Synthesis; all carry a Tupungato, Mendoza appellation. GAUCHO IMPORTS
2007 Altosur Torrontès ($10)
Lush and spicy with sweet, racy, fresh flavors of spice, flowers and clean, smooth texture; long and balanced. 88
2006 Altosur Malbec ($10)
Smooth and plummy with ripe, mellow fruit and good texture; juicy, fresh and charming with lovely balance and flavors. 88
2006 Finca Sophenia Reserve Merlot ($20)
Smooth and bright with lovely plum fruit and velvety texture; sweet oak, good length and balanced fruit. 88
2006 Finca Sophenia Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon ($20)
Bright and tangy with racy acidity, fresh plum and smooth texture; excellent structure, good length and fine balance. 89
2007 Synthesis Sauvignon Blanc ($30)
Floral, tropical and citrus fruit; smooth, spice, melon and a long, mellow finish with good acid structure. 88
2006 Synthesis Malbec ($30)
Lush and smooth with racy acid structure and lots of plum,chocolate, flesh and lovely berries; long, dense elegant and balanced. 90
2006 Malbec, Synthesis: The Blend ($50)
Dense, dark and very ripe with sweet oak, luscious plum and gorgeous black berry fruit; explosive, very long and potent with velvety texture and amazing depth. 45% Malbec, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot. 94
Bodegas Salentein
Bodegas Salentein.Close to 1,500 vineyard acres and one of the most beautiful modern wineries in the world, complete with drop dead art museum and two dramatic restaurants. The money—lots of it—comes from The Netherlands. PALM BAY IMPORTS
2006 Reserve Chardonnay ($20)
Creamy and smooth with clean, balanced flavors of pear and melon; mellow and showing spices and minerals. 87
2004 Reserve Pinot Noir ($20)
Smooth and showing vanilla and caramel with soft, bright acidity and pleasant balance; long and earthy with finesse and style. 88
2006 Reserve Malbec ($20)
Bright, clean and fresh with concentration and plenty of plum, spice and grip; dense, long and lively. 88
2003 Reserve Merlot ($20)
Smooth, minerally and dense with soft tannins and rich flavors of earth and plum; rich, long and balanced. 88
2006 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon ($20)
Dense, plummy and chocolatey with some green and some ripe, earthy notes; tannic, long and nicely structured. 88
2004 Numina ($35)
Rich and dense with lush fruit and some nice sweet oak that also shows spice, complexity and depth; a lovely wine. 70% Malbec, 30% Merlot. 90
2005 Pinot Noir “Primum” ($50)
Bright, ripe black cherry and silky texture with racy acidity and snappy flavors; long, rich and balanced. 90